The lost flavours of Cavallo pastry shop in Udine

Since 1958, while everyone else is asleep, Enzo Cavallo is in his workshop preparing bread according to the traditional recipe, the same one his father used. You need to look back to the past to properly understand a job which is very hard but very rewarding.

A few crumbs of a family’s history. Enzo tells me that being a baker “saves your life”; that’s how it was for his father that was held in a concentration camp for six years and managed to make it out on his own feet. All thanks to his job and his professionality. He was a baker!

Things have changed but are still very hard; today you have to fight against constant price reduction, competing against large retail stores which constantly slash prices. Enzo’s advantage comes from his top quality ingredients, like the Varnello whole wheat flour from Colombo mill in the province of Lecco. A “white gold” which conserves all the noble substances of the grain, and as a consequence it has a reduced glycaemic impact.

Lately the focus has been on healthy food and living. I’ll tell you something very interesting: this product is represented by the Umberto Veronesi foundation.

In Enzo’s world flour is the main ingredient for everything; as well as the all-purpose flour he also uses the sorghum flour, a cereal known as the “great mile”. This product is rich in soluble fibres and phosphorus, perfect for children or elderly people… and for me too, I’m always so absent minded! 😉

But it’s not only the flour which is special! Enzo works with five different types of yeast, from sourdough yeast to brewer’s yeast, poolish and biga yeats and even wine yeast. This is fine art!

Enzo explains all the technical details of the baking process, never leaving anything unattended. The choice of ingredients depends on the product he wants to obtain; different ingredients for different products. The perfect way to create crunchyness or softs breads!

But let’s talk about what you can find in this little paradise!

Do you love sweets? Here you can find the best pastry biscuits made with corn flour, or classic viennese biscuits with grated orange zest or hazelnuts, dark chocolate cookies, or made with red sorhum or quinoa. Shall I keep going?

If you’re as greedy as I am you’ll find it hard to resist the mini pastries that are displayed. Next you’ll be tasting the tea biscuits and to finish you off properly… the chocolate treats. Small delicacies made in Enzo’s workshop.

And they obviously have a selection of Bavarian cakes and excellent ice-cream to freshen up in the summer months!

If instead you’re more of a wine lover, here they also have a very particular line called “DI VIN” that finds its greatest use during the Christmas holidays.

A collection of baked goods in which Enzo adds wine during the kneading process: the alcohol is lost during the baking process, but the scents and flavours are still there. Incredible!

From Refosco to Picolit, Verduzzo and Pignolo, as well as Malvasia…local wines that become the main carachters. Stars of the soft and tasty creams that accompany the pastries. Custards and creams of every kind!

After all when you have love and passion the result is guaranteed. This is why a stop in this little corner of paradise is a must; here Enzo Cavallo and his wife Silvana have continued a family tradition with dedication a sacrifice. You won’t regret a visit here!

Panificio Cavallo

Ph. Andrea Zangrando